Laminate Flooring Installation Guide
List of tools you will need
- A tape measure
- A spirit level
- Sawhorse or workbench
- A combination square
- Flooring planks
- Pull bar, tapping block, and spacers
- A rubber mallet
- Underlay and, if necessary underlay tape
- Electric saw or handsaw
- A chisel
- Drill (for pipework covering)
- The appropriate type of moisture meter for your subfloor
- Skirting boards or beading (to complete the look)
- Safety measures like dust masks, knee pads, safety goggles, and ear defenders
Your Installation Options
Floating floor
Instead of joining to the subfloor, the boards in a floating floor click together. Because it is much simpler to install, this is perfect for a click-joining floor like laminate. We would suggest installing and prepping underlay for this strategy.
Preparing to fit your laminate
Examine the packs
To ensure that you are satisfied with the flooring, you should check one box when it arrives. There may be some color difference across the planks and batches because some of our wood-effect laminate flooring is made to resemble real wood. Utilize these color contrasts to your advantage while laying the floor by alternating planks of various tones to create a beautiful, organic appearance.
Leave to acclimatise
You should leave your laminate floor in the room where it will be installed for a full 24 hours. The floor can acclimatise during this period. As long as the packs remain horizontal and the weight is evenly distributed among them, you can do this by placing them on the ground or in stacks. Keep the planks in their packaging, but let some air in by opening each end.
Avoid exposing the floors to the outside and try to keep the space at the same temperature you would typically have it at, which is between 18 and 27°C. In order to acclimate the planks to the heat, you will need to gradually raise the temperature if you are utilizing underfloor heating. For instructions on how to accomplish this, consult your heating provider.
Prepare the subfloor
Make sure the subfloor is level once your plywood is down.
Choosing the right plywood:
For joists spaced approx. 40.6cm on centre, use 19mm thick plywood.
For joists spaced approx. 48.7cm on centre, use plywood that’s a minimum of 19mm thick.
For joists spaced 60.9cm on centre, use 22-28mm tongue & groove (T&G) plywood or oriented strand board (OSB)
Before you begin, make sure the subfloor is sufficiently dry with a moisture meter. Make sure the concrete subfloor is entirely dry before installing it if you have one. To lessen the chance of moisture getting to the boards, a damp-proof membrane should be put on top of the flooring. To stop the flooring from buckling and expanding, you must do this (many underlays now come with built-in damp-proof membranes).
Any nails or screws in your flooring should be fastened beneath the surface. This is to ensure that, if you're using an underlay, they won't pierce it. To get rid of extra dust or dirt, vacuum the floor and remove any leftover glue from earlier flooring. If you're using an underlay, this is the time to put it down. Secure the rows together with tape after rolling it out in the same way as you're fitting the floor.
Plan the design
Consider which way you want your planks to lie. For optimal results, generally place the boards against the longest wall. You can choose to follow the light flow in the room or continue from the entryway if the space is square. If you've chosen parquet or herringbone, you can decide on the pattern's direction and style as well as how you want the eye to be drawn when you go into the space.
Finally
Fitting your floor should ideally be the final step in any renovation endeavors. To reduce the likelihood of damaging the room when it's time to install the floor, work your way from the top to the bottom. Fit the floor after the units have been fitted, NOT BEFORE, as this also applies to new kitchens and islands. By doing this, you can ensure that the weight won't cause your new floor to buckle.
Installing your floor
The floating method
Step 1: Before laying the planks, measure the width of the final row. You can do this by dividing the total width of the room by the width of an individual plank. This will allow you to cut down the first row of planks to ensure the final row is at least 60mm wide.
Step 2: Place spacers between the first row and the walls to make an expansion gap of at least 2mm. If you’re using underfloor heating, we recommend a minimum of 5mm.
Step 3: Lay the floor from left to right starting at the longest wall with the tongue part of the plank facing the wall.
Step 4: Stagger each plank by at least 30cm to create a natural look and a strong foundation. To do this, you’ll need to cut a plank at the end of each row. Ensure these planks are laid so that the cut side is facing the outside wall. Use the remainder of the previous plank to continue to stagger the joints from row to row.
Step 5: To fully connect the planks, knock gently (don’t use a mallet here as you may damage the click connection) on the outer end.
Step 6: After the first row, connect each plank to the previous row as well as the plank next to it. You can do
this by clicking each joint into the gap of the plank in front, starting at a high angle and applying light pressure. After you hear a click, lower it flat on the floor. Repeat the previous step to make sure all planks are connected as closely as possible with no gaps.
Step 7: The last row might be tricky, but a pull bar and rubber mallet can help to create a tight fit.
Finalising the design
Finishing the Look
Mark the location of any pipes in the board you're using before fitting your floor around them. In this position, drill a hole and use a saw to make two angled cuts. From the board's edge to the hole, these cuts should create a wedge that can be removed. To make the plank appear intact, fit the board around the hole and then glue this wedge back behind the pipe.
To begin fitting around door frames, take the door out of the frame. To ensure it will fit beneath the architrave, align a flooring offcut with a threshold bar piled on top. If necessary, trim the architrave's bottom to the proper height using a handsaw and chisel. Before refitting, you might also need to trim the bottom of the door.
The new flooring can then be seamlessly integrated with your existing walls and covered with matching thresholds and beading to fill up expansion gaps and provide a polished appearance. Avoid attaching any trims to the flooring itself as this could interfere with the expansion gaps.
In the event that repairs are required, any extra boards or cuttings can be stored away. You can use extra floorboards to cut strips with a hand saw and glue them into place if the expansion gap has been left too big and the skirting or molding doesn't cover it.